The James Beard Foundation Dinner 11.30.09

Mark Porcaro, Executive Chef

Jason Banusiewicz, Executive Sous Chef

Tommy Choi, Pastry Chef

“Food matters. You are what you eat not only because food is nutrition, but also because food is an integral part of our everyday lives. Food is economics, politics, entertainment, culture, fashion, family, passion...and nourishment.” (www.jamesbeard.org)

I wish I had pictures, but pictures wouldn’t do it justice. For this meal, I have to thank a friend of a friend who was on vacation still last night…otherwise, I’d have to write about the Chinese takeout I was likely to have had for dinner last night instead of this ridiculously indulgent meal. So f.o.f., wherever you are, thanks. This one’s for you andI hope the vacay was worth it.

The James Beard Foundation’s mission is “to celebrate, preserve, and nurture America’s culinary heritage and diversity in order to elevate the appreciation of our culinary excellence.” And they do a wonderful job of it. The James Beard House is at 167 West 12^th Street. It’s literally tucked in, part of a non-descript brick façade, across the street from the St. Vincent hospital. I walked by it the first time. Walking in, it’s old-school homey…in a little bit of a might-be-a-haunted-house way. Whisked past the maître d’ and through the kitchen full of frenzied chefs plating and photographers snapping close-ups of the feast, I waited with friends in a really pretty sunroom. It was quarter to 7 and it was a long 15 minutes of anticipation. I had done some homework and the hors d’oeuvre list had me a little keyed up.

Here’s where it gets silly. I am among the youngest in the room but definitely not aggressive enough to jockey for these little morsels as they come streaming out of the kitchen at shoulder height; the waiters are pros, completely unphased by the frenzy of hungry piranhas leaving nothing but toothpicks, skewers and spoons in seconds flat. I need to step up my game. I’m able to reach a timid arm into the crowd and snag some. Winner winner, chicken dinner.

Now onto the food… The chefs are down from Top of the Hub in Boston for the night to show off. I was promised excellence and they definitely delivered.

The menu as written…a few changes are noted below…

Cured Duck with Quince Paste and Walnut–Raisin Toasts

King Crab Cocktails with Wasabi, Lemon Spritz, and Cucumber

Mediterranean Cocktails (Greek Feta, Kalamata Olives, Tomatoes, and Red Wine Vinegar–Infused Pickled Onions)

Miniature Lobster Club Sandwiches on Brioche with Cured Bacon and Avocado-Herb Mayonnaise

Abalone, Shrimp and Pork Shumai

Smoked Salmon Summer Rolls with Trout Caviar

Top of the Hub Chardonnay 2006
Top of the Hub Merlot 2005

Salmon with trout caviar had great texture…to the point that a friend commented that it was a “perfect glutinous bite.” Not a word I’d typically associate with deliciousity but it worked. Lightly smoked and very fresh. Next, and I have to apologize to my roommate Da for not stealing at least a dozen of these for him, I had the mini-lobster club. The lobster was a great twist, the bacon was perfectly cooked and the thin slice of avocado melted it all together. I never met an upscale shumai I didn’t like (especially one filled with delicious abalone) and the surprise scallops were also tasty if not seared….my texture-sensitive palette would thank the chef for a little time on an open flame. There was a substitution…a foie gras with white raisins make an appearance. Delicious, but I would have liked only one raisin instead of two…didn’t taste the foie gras until the last second and that seems like a waste. Similarly, the king crab was my only real disappointment. Instead of a light lemon spritz, it was bathed in heavy cocktail sauce. It wasn’t bad, really, but seems like a little bit of a waste of a pricey ingredient.

They opened the wine pairings for the evening with an easy Top of the Hub vintage…both fairly standard and unimpressive though unoffensive. I was hoping for a little champagne but before I could obsess about it very long, we were headed upstairs to the first of the six courses…

Part of the beauty of the James Beard House dinners could be that you are assigned to a table with random people. Our random people didn’t take much interest in the 20-somethings across from them, however, so I had a lot more time to concentrate on my food….

I think I’ll let the menu speak for itself. The courses were as follows…

Duck Confit with Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Dried Winter Fruit Compote, and Villa Manodori Dark Cherry Balsamic Vinegar
Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir 2006

Pan-Seared Scallops with Chorizo Emulsion, Shaved White Truffle, and Fennel Salad
Isabel Mondavi Chardonnay 2007

Roasted Venison Loin with Creamed Salsify, Cipollini, and Mole
Spellbound Petite Sirah Reserve 2006

Baby Romaine with Coddled Egg, Brioche, White Anchovies, and Aïoli
Isabel Mondavi Deep Rosé 2007

Chocolate–Hazelnut Cheesecake with Amaretto Mousse, Blood Orange Coulis, and Caramel Sauce
Medusa Old Vine Zinfandel Port 2007

My favorite might have been the venison. After tossing back and forth what exactly it was seasoned with, I checked the menu…mole! What a good idea. I was lucky enough to meet the sommelier after dinner. Ironic, because after talking with the sommelier about the wine pairing for this dish, I totally disagree with his choice. He seemed to be particularly in love with this wine, even though critics panned it. Talking about how, at 13.5% they didn’t really “blow out” the alcohol in the wine. I seriously beg to differ. 13.5% is fairly average for this wine and the best part (for me, anyway), the inky color and the firm texture (the grapes are “petite” after all and have a high skin to juice ratio) were missing! Oh well, the port made up for it.

Finally, I have to give serious praise to Tommy Choi. You almost made me like dessert. I don’t know how you did it but you made a perfectly textured, light (tasting) cheesecake. The blood orange was 200% the perfect compliment and acidic zing and at a couple of bites, it was sized just right. Might be the first time in history, I’ve finished a dessert, well done.

And, in closing, I’d like to give a shout-out to the only diner audacious (read: drunk) enough to ask a question of the chefs after dinner. Her poignant, “How did you pick out your menu?” was wrought with deep-thought and amazing insight that I needed to close out my night…or not….Luckily, I contained my laughter when the chef explained that they are just things that “tasted good.” She was sorely disappointed as though she was expecting a story from his 11^th birthday or that time he got beat up on the playground in kindergarten to explain the selection. Frankly, I don’t care how they arrived at the menu, I’m just happy that, unlike my readers, I got to taste it.

For more information on the James Beard Foundation: http://www.jamesbeard.org/

an ode (or oh no) to french cuisine...

First of all, I just want to say, before i write this article, that I have the utmost respect for Daniel Boulud's culinary style after having oysters at Daniel NYC.

But last saturday night, at DB Bistro Moderne, Boulud fell flat.

Not that it was a terrible experience but I need to stay the hell out of midtown on the weekends. I'm never happy with the decision to leave brooklyn for midtown on the weekends. If you are going to offer an extensive and expensive wine list, please teach your waitstaff to at least pretend to pronounce the wines on your list. In the most un-snobby way possible...how well does it bode for my confidence in your staff's advice if they act like they haven't even SEEN the wine on the list before let alone actually TASTED it.



On to the food...To start, bread on the table. What a cute presentation...before I take a bite, I say to my friend that this "looks like a little pretzel loaf." Bite. Pretzel. Didn't know I was at a Yankee's game. They didn't even give me mustard. I'll stick with the mini-baguette, thanks.

Then, I had a salad called "Rocket Arugula." Ok. I am lost. Is my salad blasting off? I mean, i love arugula as much as the next Italian but...there were no fireworks. The salad was actually bland, despite the tiny cubes of serrano ham and manchego cheese. The olives they used were actually fairly rancid, if not just a very poor choice. The dressing was unmemorable. I'm sad. I love salad.

Alright, don't cry over spilt milk mediocre salad. For dinner, i had to stay away from the db burger. I just do not like foie gras and i definitely don't like it inside a sirloin burger. call me crazy, but I shared the sea bass, which was the special for the night and duck confit.



The best thing I ate all night was definitely the tiny stuffed razor clam on top of the sea bass. It was also served with herbed, and steamed squash and tomatoes. The skin on the sea bass was great, as was the clam which was topped with a little bit of pecorino. veggies were slightly overcooked but good flavor.

The duck was kind of sad. The waitress actually recommended the spaetzel as a side dish which was puzzling to say the least. We declined. The concept was great: wild chanterelle mushrooms and broccoli rabe but the actual duck wasn't as crispy as I'd like and the breast was probably from an anorexic poultry farm.

But all is not lost! The strawberry tart for dessert is LOVELY. Not only because I love to crack the caramelized crust but because it was (actually) original! Served out of a ramekin with with strawberry sorbet on the side, it's actually seasoned in the crust and light glaze with a hint of fennel and clover.

Delicious cut to the sweetness. db Bistro Moderne also has a great after dinner drink list (left). A great supplement or substitute for dessert.

Anyway, probably not worth the hype but seeing as how it was in mid-town a couple blocks from Grand Central, they are probably not on their toes as they should be.

Next time, I'm getting the coq-au-vin....or picking up a fried chicken breast from KFC and watching a movie in my apartment in Brooklyn...