The James Beard Foundation Dinner 11.30.09

Mark Porcaro, Executive Chef

Jason Banusiewicz, Executive Sous Chef

Tommy Choi, Pastry Chef

“Food matters. You are what you eat not only because food is nutrition, but also because food is an integral part of our everyday lives. Food is economics, politics, entertainment, culture, fashion, family, passion...and nourishment.” (www.jamesbeard.org)

I wish I had pictures, but pictures wouldn’t do it justice. For this meal, I have to thank a friend of a friend who was on vacation still last night…otherwise, I’d have to write about the Chinese takeout I was likely to have had for dinner last night instead of this ridiculously indulgent meal. So f.o.f., wherever you are, thanks. This one’s for you andI hope the vacay was worth it.

The James Beard Foundation’s mission is “to celebrate, preserve, and nurture America’s culinary heritage and diversity in order to elevate the appreciation of our culinary excellence.” And they do a wonderful job of it. The James Beard House is at 167 West 12^th Street. It’s literally tucked in, part of a non-descript brick façade, across the street from the St. Vincent hospital. I walked by it the first time. Walking in, it’s old-school homey…in a little bit of a might-be-a-haunted-house way. Whisked past the maître d’ and through the kitchen full of frenzied chefs plating and photographers snapping close-ups of the feast, I waited with friends in a really pretty sunroom. It was quarter to 7 and it was a long 15 minutes of anticipation. I had done some homework and the hors d’oeuvre list had me a little keyed up.

Here’s where it gets silly. I am among the youngest in the room but definitely not aggressive enough to jockey for these little morsels as they come streaming out of the kitchen at shoulder height; the waiters are pros, completely unphased by the frenzy of hungry piranhas leaving nothing but toothpicks, skewers and spoons in seconds flat. I need to step up my game. I’m able to reach a timid arm into the crowd and snag some. Winner winner, chicken dinner.

Now onto the food… The chefs are down from Top of the Hub in Boston for the night to show off. I was promised excellence and they definitely delivered.

The menu as written…a few changes are noted below…

Cured Duck with Quince Paste and Walnut–Raisin Toasts

King Crab Cocktails with Wasabi, Lemon Spritz, and Cucumber

Mediterranean Cocktails (Greek Feta, Kalamata Olives, Tomatoes, and Red Wine Vinegar–Infused Pickled Onions)

Miniature Lobster Club Sandwiches on Brioche with Cured Bacon and Avocado-Herb Mayonnaise

Abalone, Shrimp and Pork Shumai

Smoked Salmon Summer Rolls with Trout Caviar

Top of the Hub Chardonnay 2006
Top of the Hub Merlot 2005

Salmon with trout caviar had great texture…to the point that a friend commented that it was a “perfect glutinous bite.” Not a word I’d typically associate with deliciousity but it worked. Lightly smoked and very fresh. Next, and I have to apologize to my roommate Da for not stealing at least a dozen of these for him, I had the mini-lobster club. The lobster was a great twist, the bacon was perfectly cooked and the thin slice of avocado melted it all together. I never met an upscale shumai I didn’t like (especially one filled with delicious abalone) and the surprise scallops were also tasty if not seared….my texture-sensitive palette would thank the chef for a little time on an open flame. There was a substitution…a foie gras with white raisins make an appearance. Delicious, but I would have liked only one raisin instead of two…didn’t taste the foie gras until the last second and that seems like a waste. Similarly, the king crab was my only real disappointment. Instead of a light lemon spritz, it was bathed in heavy cocktail sauce. It wasn’t bad, really, but seems like a little bit of a waste of a pricey ingredient.

They opened the wine pairings for the evening with an easy Top of the Hub vintage…both fairly standard and unimpressive though unoffensive. I was hoping for a little champagne but before I could obsess about it very long, we were headed upstairs to the first of the six courses…

Part of the beauty of the James Beard House dinners could be that you are assigned to a table with random people. Our random people didn’t take much interest in the 20-somethings across from them, however, so I had a lot more time to concentrate on my food….

I think I’ll let the menu speak for itself. The courses were as follows…

Duck Confit with Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Dried Winter Fruit Compote, and Villa Manodori Dark Cherry Balsamic Vinegar
Isabel Mondavi Pinot Noir 2006

Pan-Seared Scallops with Chorizo Emulsion, Shaved White Truffle, and Fennel Salad
Isabel Mondavi Chardonnay 2007

Roasted Venison Loin with Creamed Salsify, Cipollini, and Mole
Spellbound Petite Sirah Reserve 2006

Baby Romaine with Coddled Egg, Brioche, White Anchovies, and Aïoli
Isabel Mondavi Deep Rosé 2007

Chocolate–Hazelnut Cheesecake with Amaretto Mousse, Blood Orange Coulis, and Caramel Sauce
Medusa Old Vine Zinfandel Port 2007

My favorite might have been the venison. After tossing back and forth what exactly it was seasoned with, I checked the menu…mole! What a good idea. I was lucky enough to meet the sommelier after dinner. Ironic, because after talking with the sommelier about the wine pairing for this dish, I totally disagree with his choice. He seemed to be particularly in love with this wine, even though critics panned it. Talking about how, at 13.5% they didn’t really “blow out” the alcohol in the wine. I seriously beg to differ. 13.5% is fairly average for this wine and the best part (for me, anyway), the inky color and the firm texture (the grapes are “petite” after all and have a high skin to juice ratio) were missing! Oh well, the port made up for it.

Finally, I have to give serious praise to Tommy Choi. You almost made me like dessert. I don’t know how you did it but you made a perfectly textured, light (tasting) cheesecake. The blood orange was 200% the perfect compliment and acidic zing and at a couple of bites, it was sized just right. Might be the first time in history, I’ve finished a dessert, well done.

And, in closing, I’d like to give a shout-out to the only diner audacious (read: drunk) enough to ask a question of the chefs after dinner. Her poignant, “How did you pick out your menu?” was wrought with deep-thought and amazing insight that I needed to close out my night…or not….Luckily, I contained my laughter when the chef explained that they are just things that “tasted good.” She was sorely disappointed as though she was expecting a story from his 11^th birthday or that time he got beat up on the playground in kindergarten to explain the selection. Frankly, I don’t care how they arrived at the menu, I’m just happy that, unlike my readers, I got to taste it.

For more information on the James Beard Foundation: http://www.jamesbeard.org/

Death of Summer...a trip to Connecticut

Being that this is a little beyond the scope of NYC and the outer boroughs, and that there's not easy way to get there without a car, I'll keep this short.

I love New England. So this weekend, I took a trip to Noank, CT. This is a small part of Mystic...of Mystic Pizza fame. Past New London (hello the U. S. Coast Guard Academy) on I-95, almost in Rhode Island.


This is a quaint, New England shoreline town. Sleepy and full of old money, it speaks to the New England Prep school kid in me. OK, but seriously, I spent the afternoon taking in the rocky coastline, leaves on the cusp of bursting into full fall reds and oranges and having a late lunch at Abbott's Lobster in the Rough.

What was awesome about this lunch is that I was with 4 other people and could have a little of everything. On the menu: 6 oysters on the half-shell, 6 clams on the half-shell, The "Abbotizer" special (don't get excited! just some crudites), shrimp and corn chowder, steel gray clam chowder, 2 hot lobster rolls, a lobster dinner complete with a 1.5 lb lobstah, cole slaw and chips (don't forget the bib), stuffed clams and crab cakes.

The only disappointment was the roasted corn. Considering that, last weekend, I drove up and down the long island farm stretch for an hour looking for a farm stand that had roasted corn despite the downpour, I had high hopes. Abbotts roasted corn is generally average but the French in me will use any reasonable vegetable as an excuse to eat drawn butter so I ordered...Turns out that cooking corn, removing it from heat, and then cooking it again renders it totally and utterly disgusting. More than the taste (could just be a bad ear) was the texture. Just plain overcooked. Too bad.


Easily distracted by shiny things and things with claws full of succulent lobster meat, I didn't have to cope with Corngate 2009 for long.


Both chowders were very good, but I think i'll always prefer the thinner-than-usual clam chowder, seemingly made with actual sea water (in the best possible way). My mother and Mike each had a lobster roll (not my thing, i prefer the lack of bread and the carnage of a full steamed lobster any day), my Gram had crab cakes for the first time at age 81 and Rae Rae had stuffed clams.

Your eyes do not deceive you: that's a very special dog getting a tow in an inflatable raft. Peace out, Summer. It's an annual tradition for me at this little place (closes for the season on Columbus Day). Something about B.Y.O.B and picnic tables that I can't say no to. Perfect way to start, middle or end the summer if you've got a way to get there.

Say a little prayer for the lobster I spent a good 40 minutes devouring on Sunday...R.I.P. little dude, you were delicious.